The short answer
Keep it simple. Settle into your riad, have mint tea, then walk to Jemaa el-Fnaa about an hour before sunset. Watch the food stalls go up and the performer circles form, see the Koutoubia floodlit, and eat at the stalls or a rooftop. Arrange for your riad to meet you at a landmark if you will walk back after dark.
In more detail
The square changes through the evening. From about 16:00, handcarts bring in poles, benches and grills. At sunset the call to prayer sounds over the drums and smoke rises off the grills. The stalls serve until about midnight.
A rooftop terrace over the square is a gentle first view. Go up 20 to 30 minutes before sunset to get a seat. If you eat at the stalls, ask the price of everything before you sit down and check the bill against the board.
Expect some attention on the first walk. Say 'la, shukran', keep moving, and do not follow anyone who offers to show you the way to your riad. Save your riad's location on your phone before you go out.
Good to know
- Save your riad's location offline before leaving.
- Carry small notes for the stalls and juice carts.
- Keep your phone in a front pocket in the crowds.