The short answer
Gnawa is the music of spiritual brotherhoods descended from West Africans in Morocco. It is played on the guembri, a three-string bass lute, with iron castanets called qraqeb, in long, hypnotic rhythms traditionally used for healing ceremonies. Gnawa is on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. In Marrakech you'll hear it every evening in Jemaa el-Fnaa.
In more detail
The sound carries across the square long before you see the players: the deep pulse of the guembri and the clatter of the qraqeb. In the square, the musicians play for tips.
Gnawa's roots are spiritual, and the music in the square is the public face of a much older tradition of healing music. Private Gnawa evenings can be arranged in Marrakech if you want to hear it away from the crowds.
If you photograph or film a Gnawa group in the square, give some coins. Agreeing the amount first avoids an awkward moment afterwards.
Good to know
- Listen for the guembri's bass line.
- Stand at the edge of the circle to listen.
- Coins for photos or filming.
- Ask your riad about private music evenings.
- Summer visitors: look for the National Festival of Popular Arts, where Gnawa troupes perform alongside groups from every region. The 55th edition ran from 2 to 6 July 2026.