The short answer
Agadir for swimming and an easy family beach holiday; Essaouira for character, food and wind sports. Agadir has a long, sheltered bay with calm water, resort hotels and steady sunshine. Essaouira has a UNESCO medina, ramparts, the best grilled fish on the coast and a windy beach built for kitesurfing rather than sunbathing.
In more detail
Agadir was rebuilt after the 1960 earthquake, so it has little historic texture. What it has is about 10 km of golden sand, water calm enough for children, lifeguards in season and a tidy promenade. It is the stronger choice for families with young children and for winter sun.
Essaouira's beach is beautiful but the Alize trade wind blows hard for much of the year, and there is a strong rip near the river mouth. It suits walkers, windsurfers and kitesurfers, and travellers who care more about the town than the sand.
They are about 175 km apart, roughly 2h45 along the coast road past the surf bays of Taghazout, so they combine easily. Fly into Agadir, spend two nights, then drive up the argan coast to Essaouira and on to Marrakech. From Marrakech, Agadir is about three hours and Essaouira about 2h45.
Good to know
- Agadir's sea is warmest from June to September.
- Book Essaouira early around the Gnaoua festival in June.
- Stop at an argan co-operative on the road between the two.