The short answer
The busy parts are. Jemaa el-Fna and the main lit streets stay lively well into the evening and are generally fine. The deep residential lanes are different: they go dark and quiet, are easy to get lost in, and offer nothing to see. After dinner, stick to the main routes or arrange a car or an escort back to your riad.
In more detail
The square is at its best after dark, with the grills smoking and the musicians and storytellers out. It is also at its most crowded, so it is the time to keep your phone in a front pocket and your bag closed and in front of you. Pickpocketing in crowds is the main risk, not violence.
The walk home is where people come unstuck. A riad that felt five minutes away at noon can be hard to find at night, and getting lost in quiet lanes invites 'help' you did not want. Ask your riad to send someone to meet you at a landmark, or use an arranged car to the nearest gate.
Women walking alone after dark will find it easier with an arranged transfer than picking through unlit alleys. Scooters still race through the lanes at night, so keep to one side.
Good to know
- Note the name of the nearest gate or landmark to your riad.
- Download the medina on an offline map in case your signal drops.
- Carry your riad's phone number on paper as well as in your phone.