The short answer
The two firm favourites are a sunset dinner in the Agafay desert, about 40 minutes from the medina, and a shared hammam followed by a rooftop dinner. Add the gardens in the morning, the souks at an easy pace, a sunrise balloon flight and Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk. Three to four nights is a good length.
In more detail
A hammam for two needs one piece of knowledge. Traditional public hammams are single-sex, so a couple would go separately. Riads and spas offer private sessions where you share the steam, the black-soap scrub and the rhassoul clay, usually followed by an oil massage. Our hammam ritual takes one to four guests in a medina hammam, with a warm argan-oil massage to finish.
Agafay is the evening out of town. The drive is short and dinner is in camp around the fire. On our sunset trip you can ride a camel or a quad first, then stay for the stars. In the morning, the sunrise balloon lifts off over the countryside north of the city for 45 to 60 minutes, with the High Atlas in view and a Berber breakfast on landing.
In the city, Jardin Majorelle at opening time, a slow afternoon in the souks and a rooftop table over the Koutoubia at sunset make a full day. Our vintage sidecar ride shows Marrakech by night from a different seat.
Spring and autumn are the best months. In winter, the days are clear but desert nights turn cold, so pack a warm layer for an Agafay dinner.