The short answer
The souks open slowly from about 09:00 to 10:00 and trade until about 19:00 or 20:00, shop by shop rather than all at once. The calmest time to walk them is about 09:30 to 11:30, before the crowds. On Friday many shops open late or close for a few hours around the midday prayer.
In more detail
There is no single opening bell. Shutters go up one at a time through the morning, and workshops such as the blacksmiths in Souk Haddadine or the dyers near Mouassine start when their day starts. By late morning the main spine, Souk Semmarine, is busy.
Early is best for browsing. Shopkeepers are setting up and the lanes are cooler and less crowded. Afternoons in summer are hot and slow; evenings are lively again until the shops close.
Friday is the exception. Many shops close for a while around midday prayer and reopen in the afternoon. Not everything shuts, but plan sights for Friday morning and shopping for Friday afternoon.
Good to know
- Go about 09:30 for the quietest lanes.
- Friday: sights in the morning, souks in the afternoon.
- During Ramadan, shops open later and trade late into the evening.
- Haggle in the souks, not in shops with price tags.
- Tea in a shop doorway does not oblige you to buy.