The short answer
They should, by law, but drivers often leave it off for visitors. Ask for the 'compteur' before the car moves. If the driver refuses, agree the fare out loud before you get in, or wait for the next taxi. At the airport, petits taxis usually charge a set airport rate rather than running the meter.
In more detail
The petit taxi is the small beige cab for short trips: the medina to Gueliz, Jardin Majorelle, the station, the Menara gardens. A high fixed quote instead of the meter happens most at the busy pick-up points, especially Jemaa el-Fnaa and the railway station.
A small, legitimate surcharge applies late at night, so a higher evening fare is not always a trick. Drivers often pick up other passengers heading the same way. Shared petits taxis are normal here, so do not be alarmed if the car stops for someone else.
Petits taxis are for trips within the city and cannot legally leave the urban area. For Agafay, the Atlas valleys or another town, you need a grand taxi, a coach or a private driver.
Good to know
- Walk a short way from the square or station; cruising taxis are easier to deal with.
- Carry small notes and coins, since drivers rarely have change.
- Settle the fare before you get in, never at the destination.