The short answer
No, be wary of it. Black henna can contain chemicals that burn skin, so ask for natural henna only. In Jemaa el-Fnaa some henna artists start drawing on your hand before you have agreed, then demand a large sum. If you want henna, choose a café or co-operative with posted prices.
In more detail
Henna itself is a much-loved tradition. The nqasha, women who paint henna patterns on hands and feet, traditionally decorate brides and festival-goers, and a henna design is a lovely souvenir done properly.
The trouble in the square is a known hassle, not the tradition. The pattern: a woman takes your hand and starts a design before you have said yes, then demands a large sum when it is done. The answer is to agree first or say no. Pull your hand back, say 'la, shukran' and keep walking; you have not agreed to anything by being touched.
If someone turns aggressive about payment, walk towards the tourist police, who patrol Jemaa el-Fnaa. Police have arrested a woman in the square who allegedly overcharged a tourist, so the problem is real but also taken seriously.
A female guide can take you to a henna artist's workshop, which is the relaxed, local way to do it, with time to choose a design and agree a price.
Good to know
- Ask for natural henna only.
- Agree the price before the first line.
- Ask your riad to recommend a henna artist.
- Black henna: say no, however good it looks.
- Keep your hands in your pockets in the square if you don't want it.